Why Kenyan Coffee is so Good?
Kenya is considered one of the elite coffee growing regions in the world, with a coffee producing infrastructure second to none. ‘Complex’ and ‘dynamic’ are some of our favorite ways to describe Kenyan coffee, due in part to the types of coffee plants that are grown and unique processing techniques employed here. Fruity notes of blackberries and dried fruits are quite common for Kenyan coffees, as well as an intense bittersweet acidity, often reminiscent of grapefruit.
Small-holder farmers grow coffee cherries on small parcels of land, which they sell to local cooperatives or washing stations. At the washing stations, called ‘factories’, harvests are pooled from hundreds of local farmers and separated into separate lots based on the size of the coffee beans. Coffee beans are sorted by a series of screens that act as a strainer, beans that are too large to fall through the holes will remain while the smaller beans will continue to drop through the various levels. Based on these ‘screen sizes’ they are separated by grade, like AA, AB, or PB (Peaberry). As this system is designed to sort coffee by size, it is not a strict standard of quality, i.e., AA is not necessarily better than AB.
Coffee quality sorting at Karimikui Coffee Factory. Courtesy of Cafe Imports.
Kenyan Coffee Quality
Kenya is also distinctly known for the varieties they grow, most notably SL-28 and SL-34. The SL types are coffee varieties that Scott Labs released in the 1930s after years of experimentation and genetic testing, specifically aimed to be high yielding and drought resistant coffee plants. While the coffee trees don’t produce as much coffee as they originally intended, these varieties are loved and revered for creating extremely high quality and delicious coffee. You are also likely to see varieties like Ruiru 11, French Mission, K7, and Batian in coffees that come from Kenya. Other producing countries are now starting to experiment with growing the Scott Labs types to see how the variety affects cup quality and flavor development when grown in different origins.
Some striped onlookers. Photo from Case Coffee's Kenya Visit
The Habitat
The soil, climate, coffee varieties, farming practices, and processing all contribute to the distinctive flavor profile of Kenyan coffee that is unlike anything else in the world. These coffees have trademark complex flavor profile of dark fruit notes, like blackberries, dried fruit notes like raisins, currants and dates, and often have complex acidity of citrus, often pronounced as grapefruit. Fruits are not the only flavors found in these coffees, as they can often have notes of spices, bittersweet chocolate, and even a savory quality that reminds us of a ripe tomato or herbs. Aside from interesting flavors, coffees from Kenya have a distinctive body and mouthfeel that is often described as syrupy or juicy.
Kenyan Coffees ready to ship. Photo by Case Coffee Roasters